21-Feb-2024
By Outlook Traveller
----------------Satpura - the only National Park to offer a walking tour in the core forest cover
The run-up to the walk at Satpura is perhaps as thrilling as the walk itself. We take our seats on a little boat that will take us across a stretch of the Denwa river and into the forest. Barely a minute into the ride, we spot a crocodile resting peacefully on a little island in the middle of a lake. As we inch closer, looking through a pair of binoculars lent by one of the forest guides, it makes a loud swoosh with its tail as if announcing its retreat into the water. On the right, is a herd of the sambar blissfully grazing the greens along the water.
I was initially sceptical of the time that we picked for the walk - 3 p.m., when the sun is scorching right overhead. But the scepticism was laid to rest in less than a minute of entering the jungle. So dense is the canopy of the trees, that it filters the sun's rays, allowing only about a half of it to trickle through the leaves. In fact, the light, cutting through the canopy like swords of bright yellow, make for a sight to behold.
We're instructed to walk in a single file and make as little noise as possible. A minimum of four people had to go together, and since it was only two of us, we were accompanied by two forest guides - Kanhaiya and Rameshwar - who knew the jungle like the back of their hand. Curious, we asked them if they'd ever had a close shave with a wild cat. After all, we are in the 'core area' of the forest. Interestingly, Satpura is the only National Park in the country that allows visitors to walk in the core area as opposed to other parks that allow it in the buffer zones. Kanhaiya tells us that the ecosystem at Satpura is so biodiverse and self-sufficient that the carnivores are almost never a threat to humans.
The core forest cover at Satpura National Park is 1,500 sq kms whereas the buffer area is spread across 700 sq kms. Walking in a single file as instructed, we make our way past trees such as Sal, Teak, Tendu, Mahua, Cork Tree and Bamboo. "Have you ever seen a crocodile on a tree?" Kanhaiya asks. Of course we hadn't. He then points to a tree, the bark of which resembles the scaly back of a crocodile. So uncanny is the resemblance, that the tree is called the 'crocodile tree' - and one can spot hordes of these around.
There is a walking trail or 'pugdundee' etched out on the forest floor thanks to the walks, but we choose to walk slightly outside of it, to get an amplified rustle of the dried leaves being crushed underfoot. If it is a sound that calms you, then there is ample sound therapy that the forest offers.
Speaking of the forest floor, we notice pug marks of a wild cat that may have passed by not so long ago, fresh droppings of a bear and many symmetrical webs of the funnel spider. And if you look up from the stories of the floor, the trees have their tales too. Some trees bear claw marks, left behind by bears sharpening their claws. Or in some cases, by tigers marking their territory as a show of strength in keeping with the jungle laws.
As we walk further, the silence is pleasantly interrupted by the sounds of birds. After a fair bit of hide and seek with the binoculars, we are finally able to catch a glimpse of the Oriole and Kingfisher adding a dash of colour to the green and yellow tapestry of the jungle.
While we didn't catch a proper glimpse of any animal on the walk we heard the sound of an Indian gaur that fled seconds before we could lay our eyes on it and a few langurs that merrily swung on tree tops.
Spotting or no spotting, there is something so reinvigorating about being in the presence of nature's virgin beauty. And while little compares to the rush of spotting an animal in its natural habitat, it is these finer sights and sounds that make walking in a jungle, a compelling, immersive and almost meditative experience.
Tourism is now an integral part of the identity of the Satpuras. So much so that it is recognised as the key 'product' under the 'One District One Product' scheme in the district of Narmadapuram, which is home to the Satpuras.
How to get there: Itarsi is a popular railway station 70 kms away from Satpura. Closest airports would be Bhopal and Jabalpur.
Best time to visit: Between October and March. The park is closed for visitors during the monsoons - from July to September.
Cost: The Satpura Walking Safari lasts around two hours and costs between `1,500 and `2,000 depending on the number of people.
Contact: +91-9205515652 (Gypsy Adventures)
Suggested accommodation: MP Tourism's Satpura Retreat is a quaint property where tourists can enjoy a peaceful stay; Address: Mahadev Rd, Pachmarhi, Madhya Pradesh
Contact: +91-7578252097
Website: https://mpstdc.com
Source URL: https://www.outlookindia.com/traveller/mp/wellness/read/walk-in-the-wild/
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