21-Feb-2024
By Outlook Traveller
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Camping allows one to enjoy the many shades of the forest - from dusk to dawn
It's way past sundown and we're seated next to a bonfire in the jungle. Next to us, a couple of guides are busy putting up a tree tent, our home for the night. All through the past few days, the 'golden hour' had been our cue to retreat into our rooms or make our way out of a forest. And yet, here we were tonight making our way into one after sunset. And we had no plans of leaving well after sunrise the next morning. The thought was so exciting, it made me forget how sore my body was after a 16 kms trek along the Forsyth Trail earlier that day.
Satpura is the only National Park in the country that allows visitors to not only walk, but also camp in the core forest area that spans across 1,500 sq kms. An additional 700 sq kms make up the buffer zone. So night time in the jungle, as you can imagine, is pitch dark - with only the bonfire, the moon or your own torch to light up the way. It also means that the skies twinkle with star light, which is otherwise blurred behind the flash of city lights.
The thing about bonfires is that it sets the stage for storytelling. As does a starry night. And if you're a local who grew up in the forests like our guides Syed Anwar Ali and Mahendra Kalam, you most certainly have stories about encounters with a wild cat. Syed, an animated story-teller, had a treasure trove of these tales - for instance, how as a child, he put up a brave front in front of a tiger, only to go back home and faint before he could brag about it. It had been a long day, so we gorged on a very comforting Indian meal heated on the firewood with a side of continued conversations.
We were hoping to catch a glimpse of some nocturnal forest activity, but there was no peep from any quarter. The feeling is oddly disappointing and relieving at the same time. When it was time to hit bed, Mahendra told us to not fret if we heard an eerie cry because it would in all probability be the Mottled Wood Owl. With that advice apart from torches, blankets and a sleeping bag in tow, we made our way to the tent.
But the adventures weren't over yet! Getting into bed was quite an activity too. Unlike most tents that are pitched into the ground, this one hung in the air, suspended in between three strong trees. It's how it earns the name 'hammock tent'. You climb up a ladder and enter from an opening at the bottom of the tent. Given that there is little head room inside, it isn't meant for sitting or resting, but strictly retiring for the night. Despite the light material of the tent, it was reasonably warm and toasty once we settled in. And if you're someone who enjoys mild swaying like you experience in the sleeper coach of a train, then you'd appreciate how the tent lulls you into sleep.
Quite predictably and pleasantly, we woke up to the calls of birds. It's only once we stepped out of the tent that we could truly appreciate the gorgeousness of the location for our night haul. Bathed in the morning rays of the sun, the forest had woken up even prettier. We followed the calls of the birds with Mahendra, who has a natural gift to spot these winged beauties and identify them with the softest call. We spotted the Red Vested Fly Catcher swooping over a lake and the Indian Pond Heron peacefully seated beside. Also making an appearance were Parakeets, the Fan Tailed Flycatcher and the Canary Flycatcher. Having worked up an appetite with the walk and some delightful spotting, we had the breakfast prepared on the rekindled firewood from the previous night and enjoyed it with what seemed like a whole other view of the forest.
How to get there: Itarsi is a popular railway station situated 70 kms from Satpura. Closest airports would be Bhopal and Jabalpur.
Best time to visit: Between October and March. The park is closed for visitors from July to September.
Cost: A stay in a hammock tent for a night costs `14,000 for a couple. The experience also includes a guided evening walk, dinner, breakfast and a birding tour in the morning.
Contact: +91-9205515652 (Gypsy Adventures)
Source URL: https://www.outlookindia.com/traveller/mp/wellness/read/tent-on-the-tree/
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