Relishing Madhya Pradesh's unique offerings!

By Outlook Traveller

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Home-brewed mahua and masala-tossed garadu are the state's unique offerings

Of the many varieties of plant-based foods that the Indian mandi offers, the yam is my least favourite. To me, it lacks the look, aroma or flavour of its cousins. Which is why I was surprised to see the garadu (a type of yam) at multiple roadside carts as an evening snack or as a chaat item in parts of Madhya Pradesh. While it can be found in other parts of central and northern India, Madhya Pradesh - more specifically, Indore - loves garadu, which is available only during the winter months.

We sampled it on our trip to the state in February. Fried to a crisp and coated in the most lip-smacking jeeralu masala, the steaming hot chunks of garadu were indeed delicious and the perfect accompaniment to our chai. Additionally, the root is extremely nutritious and also helps build immunity, especially during the winter months when one is most susceptible to cold. The special jeeralu masala made of lemon, ginger powder, sendha namak (rock salt), jeera (cumin) and hing (asafoetida) aids digestion.  

The fact that garadu does not have an overpowering taste of its own helps it absorb the flavours in the wok and makes it the perfect hot snack on a winter evening. 

Malwa's Corn-ucopia

Another specialty that few outside the region of Malwa know about is bhutte ka kees, made with grated corn cooked in milk, ghee and aromatic spices. A gift of the monsoons, it's spiced with a special mix called jeeravan. 

Malwa has a lot more on its plate, of course. The dal bafla and the papad ki sabzi, for instance, remind us of the fact that the cuisine of the Malwa region is a delicious blend of flavours and styles adopted and adapted from Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat and Maharashtra.

Brewed with love

The mahua tree has a special place in Madhya Pradesh's heart. Whether you go on a forest trail or for a walk in a field, the local guides will promptly point to the mahua tree. They will speak of its medicinal value, its fruits, its edible flowers, its seeds that were once used to make oil, but mostly, they will speak fondly of its potent brew.  Mahua or the Madhuca longifolia is the only flower fermented to make alcohol and blooms in March and April. So if you visit Madhya Pradesh during these months, the trees will bear a dramatically different look and fragrance. They will have at their feet a carpet of pale yellow flowers. It is a busy time for the rural folks who collect the flowers, dry them and save them for distillation.  Both man and animal vie for it.. Langurs, deer and sloth bears gather around to feast on the mahua flowers. 

Heritage liquor

Given its place in India's adivasi culture, mahua is somewhat of a heritage liquor, a fact the authorities are taking note of. We tried it at a little cottage in Mandu overlooking sloping fields on a cool winter evening - perhaps the best weather to try the fiery brew. It is almost colourless with a whitish tinge and bears a light floral fragrance. A swig goes down leaving behind a mild burn and a sweet after-taste. 

Although distinct in its taste, one is reminded of sake, the popular Japanese liquor. Brewed and consumed only among the locals once upon a time, mahua is slowly making its way into cocktail glasses and high-end bars. Some purists argue that drinking it in cupped leaves in the forest honours its legacy. True as that may be, it is time this home brew tantalises the international palate.

The Information

How to get there: The airport closest to Mandu is in Indore, 124 kms away. The closest railway station is Ratlam at a distance of 99 kms.

Best time to visit: Any time of the year is a good time. However, there is much more to explore during the Mandu Festival organised in December or January. 

Cost: The farm-to-table experience costs anywhere between `2,000-`3,000. One is welcome to partake in the preparation and indulge in daily activities with the family as part of the experience. 

Contact: +91-7000802851 (Dhiraj Chaudhary), 

+91-882741595 (Marie Wintrebert Chaudhary)

A big part of Madhya Pradesh's charm lies in its quaint countryside, uncorrupted by urban lure. You can experience this in more ways than one.

Tamia - Patalkot Darshan

An initiative by Motel Tamia and Tribescape, this tour gives a close look at tribal life and its culinary culture. One of the best parts is that farm fresh food can be enjoyed at a hilltop, gazing at the rising and setting sun.

How to get there: The closest airport to Motel Tamia is Nagpur. One can also take a train to Chhindwara, and drive another 80kms to get to Patalkot

Address: Bijori, Nagpur - Pachmarhi Highway, Tamia, Chhindwara, Madhya Pradesh

Cost: `12,000-`14,000 for 2 nights 

Contact:  07149-272300, +91-6266940601

Website: https://moteltamia.com

Walk with the Pardhis

Get to know the culture of the Pardhi community, MP's traditional hunters. Evolving with the times, the Pardhis now use their traditional knowledge of the wild to acquaint tourists with their home, Panna.

How to get there: The closest airport and railway 

station to Panna is Khajuraho. The closest railway junction is Satna. 

Address: Jungle Camp Madla, Panna, Madhya Pradesh

Accomodation: MPT Jungle Camp

Cost: `2,500 onwards (for accommodation)

Contact: +91-7880108592

Website: To explore a walk with the Pardhis, get in touch with https://thelastwilderness.org.

Learn pottery in Pachdhar at Pench Jungle Camp

A small village of about 110 families, Pachdhar is home to the potters' community. One can walk through the lanes of Pachdhar while taking in the sweet scent of clay and also get one's hand muddy on the pottery wheel.

How to get there: Nagpur has the nearest airport and railway station to Pench. 

Address: Pench Jungle Camp, Kurai, Seoni, Avarghani, Madhya Pradesh

Cost: `6,000 onwards (for accommodation)

Contact:  +91-9999742000

Website: www.penchjunglecamp.com

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